Three good neighbours, albeit slightly hung over

At a stroke, Finland got three good neighbours 10 years ago. For the second time in the 20th century, Russia was so weak that Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania were able to break free. The first occasion was in 1918.

Good, harmless neighbours all three—even if they do give us a bit of a headache with their calls for NATO membership.

The mantra in the Baltic Rim is simple: "Get us all into NATO this minute."

During the Soviet era people got used to repeating different kinds of slogans and hoped that things would all work out for the best. Now it is the turn of others.

The European Union does not enjoy such unreserved support. Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania are all among the most EU-critical of the current crop of applicants. Populaces disgruntled with their governments like to tease their elected leaders by saying "no" to Brussels in opinion polls.

The Latvian nightmare is that Estonia will get into the EU in the first round and that Lithuania will join NATO. Would that leave the Latvians in a grey no-man’s land?

It is hardly likely that the West will abandon any one of these three.

The protective arm of Uncle Sam has come down over the Baltics; the region already seems to belong to the United States’ sphere of influence. One also gets this impression from the pressure that Washington exerted to get Estonia to privatise its power stations and Lithuania to open up its oil sector to American companies.

The paw of the Russian bear has not shifted an inch, either. In the view of many Russians, the Baltic Rim is still their backyard. If Russia closes the oil valves, the region’s economy will take a big hit.

We live in interesting times.

You have to admire the road the Baltic republics have taken. Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania carried through a unique revolution that was characterised by songs and by hands held together in a human chain rather than by automatic weapons and clenched fists.

The break-up of the Soviet Union began with the Baltics.

Finns find it pretty hard to step up and advise or criticise the Baltic trio. After all is said and done, these peoples managed to come through three successive occupations that would sap anyone’s strength and resolve—the Soviets, the Nazis, and then once again the Soviets in the post-war period.

They kept their cool and they liberated themselves peacefully. They are stable and progressive countries.

And another thing is worth remembering—if Finland had relatively as many Russians in its population as Latvia has, then there would be 2.2 million of them living here.

The three countries have earned and enjoyed one hell of a celebration in becoming independent once more. But now the hangover has come along.

According to one survey, only 33 percent of Latvians believe that their country has developed along the right lines since 1991.

The Balts have had to face numerous disappointments. The standard of living did not automatically bob upwards like a fishing float—in fact it went down; the West did not ride in and sweep the countries into its open arms; the Russian minorities didn’t move out en masse…

The researchers have come up with some alarming figures. In all three countries, the public’s approval ratings for political parties, parliament, the government, the judicial system, the police, the army, the customs authorities and the inland revenue services are perilously low.

And no wonder: many "humble servants of the people" get drunk with power and treat a career in politics or public service as a ticket to personal enhancement and wealth.

Increasingly the press is coming under the public hammer, too. Again it is hardly any surprise, considering that many journalists are prepared to sell themselves and their morals to the highest bidder.

An outsider looking in is forced to question how a democratic society can function where the lack of faith in state institutions is so deeply rooted.

If one goes back to Finland in 1927, a decade on from Independence and the Civil War, the disappointment and the crisis of confidence was still not as deep as this, in spite of all the traumas of those early years.

The Lithuanian President Valdas Adamkus declared not long ago that enterprises spent an excessive amount of their time wrestling with government bureaucrats and that they used one-third of their profits on bribes and backhanders.

The recently dismissed prime minister said that the Lithuanian economy had been brought to its knees in a decade: there will be more bankruptcies to come, the pile of unpaid wages will grow, unemployment is on the increase, and state support grants have been tossed into a bottomless well.

And yet even against this background it is easy to believe in a positive development in the Baltic countries. Independence has meant an intellectual liberation, freeing energy and creativity. These countries have a cultural kick, they have potential and they have a creditable level of civilisation, for all that many of the nouveau riche are boorish and brash.

The Baltic Rim countries enjoy access to an educated and hard-working labour force. They have an optimism, a belief in the future and a healthy patriotism. Traditions are held in high esteem, the family (nuclear and extended) is a tight unit, and human relations are regarded as important.

It may be of course that I move in the wrong circles, but I do not know of any citizens who are hankering to up anchor and move abroad as emigrants. One might naturally ask whether that is patriotism in action or merely a shortage of daring and initiative.

One cannot overstate the differences between the three peoples whom we tend to lump under the one Balt heading. They actually know relatively little about one another, and they are rivals rather than regional partners.

Governments in Latvia and Lithuania are fleeting affairs, and in both these countries it looks at present as if the people are prepared to experiment with a cautious leftist alternative.

Estonia’s politics are equally factious, but the governments are built to last rather better. It is hard to imagine that any groundswell of left-wing politics could take hold for at least a generation to come.

In all three countries the population is dwindling, particularly in Estonia and Latvia. It will probably be necessary in the not-too-distant future for them to take in immigrants, however impossible or repugnant the idea might seem right now.

In the final analysis, these are also poor countries when compared with the fifteen members of the EU.

A little bit of history: in the mid-17th century the rich and proud Kurland (Kurzeme in Latvian) occupied around 26,000 square kilometres of what is now western Latvia, on the Gulf of Rīga.

Not content with this, the duke who governed the place acquired a couple of colonies—Gambia in West Africa and Tobago in the West Indies. Now Latvia finds itself one place below Trinidad and Tobago in the latest United Nations Human Development Index.

I attended a funeral this summer in a small, idyllic Latvian town. During the ceremony, two guests who had been careless were embarrassed by their mobile phones ringing.

In some sense, then, I suppose the Baltic countries are catching up with the Finns, even though economists have estimated that it will be fully 30 years before they reach Finland’s present level of development.

(Editor’s note: This article originally appeared in Helsingin Sanomat and is republished here with the permission of the newspaper and the author.)

Just passing through? Then use these guides

I have always been a fan of Lonely Planet’s insightful and at times irreverent style. But their guides to Latvia miss its essence, and not just because they cover several or more countries in one book. (One is the guide to Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania, the other is the condensed guide to Scandinavian & Baltic Europe). Much focus is given to the regional and superpowers that have overrun the Baltics throughout history. That focus extends to monuments to the past, where the guides spend more time on Salaspils and the Nazi attrocities there than on Latvia’s rich achievements.

Indeed, it reminded me of their television series segment on Latvia, where you saw more of Salaspils than Rundale, Cēsis, and Bauska put together—and the final impression was of a country bearing the sins of past tragedies, not a country proud of its cultural riches, its creativity, or its energy. By comparison, the Maritime Museum in Rīga, a veritable treasure trove of maritime trade and life, is merely mentioned as an interesting place to visit.

What struck me next, reading both guides, was how quickly Latvia has been changing. The Baltics-only guide was published in 1997 (an updated second edition was released in July of this year, but is not reviewed here); the condensed Scandinavia and Baltics guide appeared in 1999. The more recent condensed guide had a new and fairly comprehensive list of Web sites focused on Latvia. For the neophyte, that is one of the most valuable resources mentioned in the guide. It also deleted some of the more dated and not particularly accurate observations in the detailed guide, for example, the admonishment to bring one’s own bag to the market, as you otherwise have to buy plastic bags at a lat each and suffer having to carry around the pictures of naked women printed on them. I’ve been visiting Latvia at least yearly since 1991 and have wandered around Rīga taking hundreds of pictures. I’ve seen everything from Hare Krishnas to a woman walking her goat, but no naked ladies on plastic bags.

In other terms of accuracy, particularly in dealing with the fallout of the Soviet occupation, the guides seemed more focused on an outsider’s uninformed optimism than actually delving into the Russian-Latvian relationship.

Indeed, the guides are stricken with an outsider’s shallow perception of Latvia and Latvians, who allegedly are not as reserved as Estonians but not as outgoing as Lithuanians. That observation, and its repetition verbatim several times, fills out page space, but does little to fill out the reader’s understanding of, or appreciation for, the Baltics—either the people or the sights.

The whole attitude is of passing through somewhere to get to another (more interesting) destination, not lingering to savor the experience. The best example is the guides’ suggestion that visitors need not allocate more than two days for Rīga, as that is all you need to see all that’s worthwhile. Even every non-Latvian I’ve talked to who has visited or lived for a while in Rīga will tell you that’s barely enough time to scratch the surface! The how of traveling to Latvia is addressed quite well, but, in the end, we are left wondering why.

(Editor’s note: This article originally appeared on the SVEIKS.com site.)

Details

Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania

John Noble, et al

Melbourne:  Lonely Planet Publications,  1997

Notes: Also reviewed is Glenda Bendure, et al., Scandinavian & Baltic Europe. Melbourne: Lonely Planet Publications, 1999.

Prezidentes uzruna Rīgas 800 atklāšanā

Ekselences! Cienījamās dāmas un godātie kungi! Man ir liels gods sveikt Jūs šodien Rīgā. Sirsnīgi sveicu Igaunijas Valsts prezidentu un kundzi. Sirsnīgi sveicu Lietuvas Valsts prezidentu un kundzi. Sirsnīgi sveicu Vācijas Federālo prezidentu un kundzi, kā arī delegāciju. Man ir patiess prieks, ka uz Rīgas 800. gadadienas svinībām ir atbraukuši Latvijas kaimiņi, draugi un partneri.

Brīvās un neatkarīgās Latvijas Republikas galvaspilsēta svin 800 gadu jubileju. Kopš 12. gadsimta beigām, kad pie Rīdziņas ietekas Daugavā uz dzīvi apmetās lībieši, zemgaļi, ieceļotāji no Kursas un kopš 1201. gada, kad savu rezidenci uz Rīgu pārcēla Brēmenes bīskaps Alberts, mēs esam kopā nogājuši garu ceļu astoņsimt gadu ilgajā un mainīgajā vēsturē. 13. gadsimtā Rīga kļūst par Hanzas savienības locekli. Kā hronikās rakstīts, Rīga, Livonijas metropole, izveidojās par vienu no ietekmīgākajām Hanzas pilsētām, kļūstot par Ziemeļeiropas tirdzniecības un sabiedriskās dzīves centru.

Cauri gadu simtiem Rīga izstarojusi lielu pievilkšanas spēku, kas piesaistījis gan tās iedzīvotājus, gan Rīgā nonākušos. Vācu zinātnieki, mākslinieki un sabiedriskie darbinieki ir atstājuši savus vārdus un darbus Rīgas vēsturē. Kā pilsētas teātra direktors vairākus gadus Rīgā darbojās Rihards Vāgners, Rīga ir bijusi šūpulis rakstniekam Verneram Bergengrīnam, zinātnisko darbību Rīgā ir sācis pazīstamais ķīmiķis, Nobela prēmijas laureāts Vilhelms Ostvalds. Rīga slavina arī Johanu Gotfrīdu Herderu, kurš šeit strādādams, smēlies ierosmi vairākiem saviem darbiem. Saskarsme, kas tuvina mūsu zemes un tautas vairāku gadsimteņu garumā, arī šodien ļauj dziļi izkopt kultūras tradīcijas un padziļināt mūsu garīgo dialogu. Vēlos atzīmēt paaudžu paaudzēs sniegto vācbaltiešu ieguldījumu Rīgas un visas Latvijas kultūras un saimnieciskajā dzīvē. Vācbaltieši arī šodien kā tilta cēlēji uztur saikni ar bijušo dzimteni.

Mēs lepojamies, ka Rīgas dēls ir igauņu mūsdienīgās dzejas aizsācējs Kristjans Jāks Petersons (Kristjan Jaak Petersen). 19. gadsimta beigās Rīga kļuva par nozīmīgu izglītības un zinātnes centru. Mēs esam priecīgi, ka daudzus Lietuvas valsts un kultūras darbiniekus kā savus skolniekus iepazina Rīgas mācību iestādēs – Rīgas ģimnāzijās un Rīgas politehnikumā. Atļaujiet nosaukt vien dažus to dienu skolniekus, kuru vārdi Lietuvai vēlāk kļuva tik nozīmīgi—armijas izveidotājs Antanas Juozapavičius, mākslinieks Petras Kalpokas, arhibīskaps Mečislovas Reinys.

Pirmo reizi savas pastāvēšanas vēsturē Rīga svin savu simtgadi kā Latvijas Republikas galvaspilsēta, turklāt šogad augustā tā atzīmē pirmo desmitgadi kā atjaunotas valsts galvaspilsēta. Priecājos, ka Vācijas Federatīvā Republika bija starp pirmajām valstīm, kas 1991. gada 28. augustā atkal atjaunoja diplomātiskās attiecības ar trim Baltijas valstīm—Latviju, Lietuvu un Igauniju. Aizvadītajā gadu desmitā starp mūsu valstīm atkal sazarojuši patiesi labi un uzticības pilni kontakti. Latvijas un Vācijas sadarbībai ir ielikti stipri pamati. Plaša un auglīga sadarbība saista visas trīs Baltijas valstis.

Latvija, Igaunija, Lietuva un Vācija kā Baltijas jūras reģiona valstis saista ne tikai Mare Balticum, tās tuvas kopīgās vērtībās, tās vienotas kopīgos nākotnes mērķos. Baltijas jūras telpā atkal kūsā dzīvība, kas šim reģionam Eiropā paredz visstraujākās attīstības garu. Tam ir liels politiskās, ekonomiskās, zinātnes un kultūras attīstības spēks. Latvija ir aktīva reģionālās un pārrobežu sadarbības dalībniece, lai minam kaut vai šī gada septembra nogalē Rīgā plānoto e-biznesa forumu. Ar gandarījumu varam atzīmēt, ka Vācijas Federatīvā Republika ir veiksmīgi aizvadījusi savu prezidentūru Baltijas jūras valstu padomē. Esmu pārliecināta, ka arī turpmāk mūsu valstis nežēlos pūliņus, lai īstenotu visam reģionam svarīgus projektus.

Baltijas valstis ir gatavas rūpēties par mūsu kontinenta drošību un stabilitāti. Mēs gribam pievienoties to valstu saimei, ar kurām mūs vieno un saista kopīgās vērtības. Konsekventa integrācija ES un NATO ir ne tikai Latvijas, Lietuvas un Igaunijas stratēģiskie mērķi. Šie jautājumi kļuvuši par visas valsts un sabiedrības dzīves sastāvdaļu. Vienīgi kļūstot par ES un NATO dalībvalstīm, Latvija, Lietuva un Igaunija pilnīgi iekļausies drošības un stabilitātes telpā. Mēs augstu vērtējam draugu un sabiedroto atbalstu ceļā uz ES un NATO. Mēs paļaujamies, ka Vācija kā ES dibinātājvalsts un NATO dalībvalsts konsekventi un mērķtiecīgi iestāsies par Baltijas valstu iestāšanos Eiropas Savienība un Ziemeļatlantijas Aliansē.

Baltijas valstīm un Vācijai ir vislabākie priekšnoteikumi, lai veicinātu vienotas Eiropas tapšanu mūsu valstu labklājībai, mūsu kaimiņu labklājībai, Eiropas labklājībai.

Ekselences, es vēlētos uzsaukt tostu… par Rīgu un tās iedzīvotājiem!… par mūsu valstu un tautu auglīgu sadarbību!… par vienotas Eiropas nākotni!