It takes a Lett to play the pipes

Recently a superb recording has come out featuring Latvian folk music played on bagpipes. The album, Dūdas Latvijā (Bagpipes in Latvia) sports a picture of a young, bagpiping lad in the arch of castle ruins. It is an excellent compilation of Latvian songs ranging from majestic, energetic and uplifting music to matter-of-fact and haunting pieces. This album is the most recent addition to UPE Recording Co.‘s Latvian Folk Music Collection and is a welcome one. While some may complain that there are no English translations of the songs, something better rewards the reader. It is a wonderful essay, written by world-class ethnomusicologist Valdis Muktupāvels, explaining about bagpipes in Latvia.

Bagpipes always have their majestic appeal; some like them more than others. This fact holds true to the chagrin of bagpipers’ neighbors. Referring to its loudness, one bagpiping enthusiast bluntly put it, “How else can you have something as loud as an electric guitar but with no cord?” Having won an international audience with younger audiences with such groups as Dead Can Dance, this instrument hides its long folk history in Latvia. What has been forgotten is that large numbers of festive bagpipers would congregate, playing through the night on the hills and shores of Latvia

Since this long bagpipe tradition has a vivacious presence still found in Latvia, Dūdas Latvijā is an album that conveys many moods. Near the beginning there’s a nice beer-drinking song with warm-hearted camaraderie, “Alus dziesma” (the Beer song) sung by Vidvuds Mednis and friends. Midway in through this song are some interesting refrains, sounding like the chanting and singing found in American Indian pow-wows. Later music in the album, like in the selections “Vaidi” (performed by Valdis and Māris Muktupāvels) and “Dūdu sauciens” (played by Rasa) transports the listener to other eras. A slow version of “Garais dancis” (Long dance) evokes a stately and majestic promenade of kings and queens. The whole album creates a feeling of movement and energy even in its tenderest, quietest movements, as in the song “Mildas dziesma” sung by Iļģi.

One foggy night in Old Rīga I walked home, having helped close a bar. Snow silently had fallen a few hours earlier and the air had warmed up again, bringing together in springtime a rare snow and fog. Both snow and fog were catching light and creating a soft omnipresent glow. It was in muffled, foggy, early morning air that I first heard the haunting, beautiful sound of bagpipes in Rīga. Two bagpipers, with what I later learned were bagpipes common to Central Europe, played at the base of “Milda,” or the Freedom Monument. They played as a slightly amused police officer and I watched. I could only stand in amazement and observe in admiration. After blurting out how I always wanted to learn the bagpipes, the players gladly introduced me to a third set of bagpipes. It was magical. Consequently I have learned enough about bagpipes to deeply appreciate this smaller cousin of the Scottish bagpipes. I easily hear when bagpipes are used, even in the most unexpected and delicate of songs like “Mildas dziesma” (Milda’s Song) Eventually, I got my own bagpipes and am now trying to slowly relearn music. With that, I should be considered a biased judge in rating this album, but a discerning one all the same.

So, what awaits the audiophile who listens to the whole collection?

Much! One song, “Pīmiņ, brōļ’” near the end of the album impressed me with its brotherly love, sung in the Latgalian dialect. The piece played by Rasa, “Aiz Daugavas vara dārzs,”; at first sounds like medieval music brilliantly coming alive and it then carries through with a delightful melody that can happily stick in one’s ear. Towards the end of the CD there is a collection of songs that convey a type of sentiment and emotion that only bagpipes can, a contemplative, yet fierce awareness. In the beginning there’s a playful, carnival, festive feel heard in “Dūdu sauciens.” A summer ball held in the fields with its own homespun music is conjured up from “Dūdu balss un zaglis” (Bagpipes’ Voice and Thief). The hypnotic song “Dūdas balss” (The voice of the bagpipe ), played by Grodi, feels mysterious and seems almost Arabic. It could be like what one might hear for the music inside a sheik’s tent where he was being served his pleasure. Contrasting that song’s sultry feel, we hear a cheerful chorus sing in “Ai, dū makaidū.”

Bagpipes can voice a heavy, foreboding and ponderous message that can put off some people. Yet bagpiping can vary and create expressions of joy, beauty, freedom and wildness. Dūdas Latvijā does this. The songs on this album create a warm, energetic air, good for a gathering of friends. While heard at keg parties or at funerals or at parades, the best bagpipe music is what you can play at home and with friends. This album does this and so much more. Dūdas Latvijā gets a “two thumbs up” in my judgment.

Details

Dūdas Latvijā

Latviešu tautas mūzikas kolekcija

UPE Recording Co.,  2000

UPE CD 017

Done with Latvia, Berzins tries murder

Death in the Glebe

On the second day of spring a body is found, rolled up in a blood-soaked rug and stuffed behind the boiler of a run-down apartment building. It is identified as the body of Ida Tepper, an eccentric and vain woman who spent the previous day on frivolous pursuits: "If Ida Tepper weren’t so rich, she’d be locked up," her hairstylist said when she arrived for her appointment. Ida Tepper felt no presentiment of disaster; in fact, she was buoyed by the sense of a new life beginning. And, in a way, it was.

Death in the Glebe is set in a fashionable area of Ottawa. Inhabitants of the Glebe, we are told, are willing to pay exhorbitant rents to live there, even in mansions-become-tenements like Hardon Hall, where the body is discovered. The tenants of Hardon Hall are an unsavoury lot. From the top floor, where "slum landlord extraordinaire" Kevin Hardon abuses drugs and his wife, to the basement, where various street people and petty criminals hide from the light, the layers of Canadian society are stacked in order of importance.

None of these characters are sentimentalized—if anything, they are so unsavoury as to be off-putting. Readers of Ilze Berzins’ previous book, the autobiographical Happy Girl, will recognize the moral relativism that does not render any of her characters fully sympathetic. All of them, from Jerry, the seedy caretaker, to Robert, Ida Tepper’s resentful gigolo, have their own agendas; several have reason to wish Ida dead. The women are more favourably portrayed than the men, though they tend toward victimhood of one kind or another. The most likeable character is a pet-loving artist named Doreen, who attracts the romantic interest of one of the detectives assigned to the case. Doreen’s boyfriend has recently left her for another woman; devastated, she takes refuge in her painting, concluding that Art and the company of dogs are more sustaining than human relations.

Death in the Glebe follows the conventions of the murder mystery, though the solution of the puzzle is disappointing in its dependence upon a botched autopsy and the inability of the police to locate a bloody murder scene in the very building in which it was committed. It is depressing enough to imagine that such things may happen with regularity in the real world; it is one of the hopeful conventions of detective novels that they do not. The outcome, which is inventive, should not hang on such unsatisfying devices.

Justice, if it can be said to be done, is approximate, and a broad strain of social satire runs through Death in the Glebe. "Money creates justice," Detective Barry Mullins says soon after the discovery of the body. He knows that the murder of a wealthy woman will remain central until the perpetrator is found, while the unsolved murders of the powerless will be forgotten. There is no expectation of justice for crimes committed against the socially insignificant. Petty criminals can slide away out of sight, confident that the police will not find it worthwhile to pursue them. Special barbs are reserved for cults that prey upon the needs and neuroses of their followers, seemingly impervious to police intervention.

The episodic structure of Death in the Glebe is similar to that of television crime shows and, while this gives the story a certain momentum, it can be disorienting until the many characters are sorted out. In spite of its deficiencies, the story progresses with unflagging energy, and the broad and sometimes maliciously drawn characters do eventually overcome their own sketchiness. The book succeeds best in being wildly personal, as the thoughts and prejudices of the author are never far from the surface.

This is a portrait of a society in which money and status determine all. Only money can afford protection to women, and single women without it are particularly vulnerable. Even those with money and position, like the unfortunate Ida Tepper, may find themselves vulnerable in unexpected ways.

(Editor’s note: This article originally appeared on the SVEIKS.com site.)

Details

Death in the Glebe

Ilze Berzins

Halifax, Nova Scotia:  Albert Street Press,  1999

ISBN 0-9686502-1-X

The great Latvian migration (or, How we’ll spend our summer vacations)

The ancient tribes that preceded the modern Latvians were well aware of the rituals of the calendar. Certain activities were reserved for certain times of the year and were to be done in certain places. And so it is for the Latvians of North America. Summer is close and that means it’s almost time to pack up the car and go. Where? To Toronto. To one of several Jāņi celebrations. To Kursa or Gaŗezers for high school. To summer camp. Maybe even to the airport to hop a plane to Latvia.

Organizers of Latvian events in the various colonies around the continent know that from early June until late August it will be fairly fruitless to try to organize any special events. Latvians love their homes, of course, but during the summer we seem to become like weekend nomads, traveling from place to place, setting up camp, spending time with one another and then getting on the road again. Rather than counting license plates in the coming months, try keeping track of how many times you run into the same Latvians: “Hey, didn’t we meet during Dziesmu svētki?”

To help you plan—or just to keep track—here’s a selective guide to events happening this summer where you are likely to run into folks you know.

Latvian Song Festival

Toronto, site of the largest Latvian population in Canada, is playing host to the nation’s 11th Latvian Song Festival. The festival, which includes dance, song and theater performances as well as other events, is set June 30-July 3, overlapping Canada Day (July 1) and ending just in time for U.S.-resident Latvians wanting to get back across the border for the Fourth of July.

For those unfamiliar with Latvian history, the song festival tradition goes back to 1873 and is a celebration of Latvian culture as well as an affirmation of nationhood.

Among highlights of the Toronto festival, according to organizers, is to be the opening concert featuring 250 children and youths, three performances of the play “Minchauzena precības” (“The Marriage of Minchausen”), a cabaret-style concert organized by the chamber choir Dzirksts, and a concert by the ever-popular Čigākas Piecīši. Also planned are sight seeing activities and several dances.

Further information is available from the festival Web site.

Camps for kids

Sending the children off to camp is somewhat of a tradition in North America. Many of us have suffered through the experience, and now many of us are packing up our kids and sending them away, too. If it’s a Latvian camp you’re looking for, several choices are available.

In the northeastern United States, the Latvian camp in the Catskills near the tiny town of Tannersville, N.Y., has scheduled several periods. For young children three periods of the “Īkstīši” program are planned July 2-8, July 9-15 and July 30-Aug. 5. A three-week period for children who speak Latvian is set July 9-29, while a period for non-Latvian speakers is set July 30-Aug. 12. The camp is run by the Latvian Ev.-Lutheran Church of New York and more information is available on the church’s Web site.

In the Midwest, the Latvian camp Gaŗezers near Three Rivers, Mich., has three periods planned for children of elementary school age: July 2-15, July 16-29, and July 30-Aug. 12. The camp, which focuses on providing a Latvian language environment, offers children varied activities such as crafts, games, folk dancing and singing and, weather permitting, daily swimming in Long Lake. Further information about the camp is available from Gaŗezers.

And in the northwestern United States, there’s the Mežotne camp run out of the West Coast Latvian Education Center near Shelton, Wash. This year’s camp for children ages six to 13 is set Aug. 13-20. The camp also accepts four- and five-year-olds if accompanied by a parent or guardian. For further information, contact camp Administrator Vilnis Sils (telephone +1 (206) 935-2702).

In Canada, two camps cater to kids. One is Saulaine near the egalitarian-sounding Utopia, Ontario. Saulaine reportedly has scheduled periods July 12-26 for young children ages three and four, as well as programs for older children. The camp is managed by the St. John Latvian Ev.-Lutheran Church in Toronto (telephone +1 (416) 921-3327). The other camp, Sidrabene, is near Milton, Ontario , and can be reached by telephone at +1 (905) 335-2030.

If you are interested in music and want to travel to Latvia, there’s the 4th International Camp for Young Latvian Musicians scheduled July 9-18 at the Ogre Music School in Ogre. Although the registration deadline has passed, further information about the camp may be obtained from the camp’s artistic director, Dace Aperāne, 11 Cat Rocks Dr., Bedford, NY 10506. The camp program, according to Aperāne, consists of lectures, concerts and master classes in voice, composition and orchestral instruments, as well as special classes in jazz, education and dance. The music faculty features musicians from Latvia and other European countries, Canada and the United States.

Summer high schools

Children who have completed their local Latvian language schools need not stop their education there. Two programs offer a six-week summer high school experience focused on further instruction in language, culture and history.

The summer high school at the Gaŗezers camp near Three Rivers, Mich., is scheduled July 2-Aug. 12. The start date this year conflicts with the Latvian Song Festival in Toronto, which is only a few hours away by automobile, and that means several students no doubt will be arriving late to school. But when they get there, they’ll have a full schedule to tackle. More information about the school is available from Gaŗezers.

Kursa, the West Coast Latvian summer high school, is scheduled July 2-Aug. 11 at the West Coast Latvian Education Center near Shelton, Wash. For further information, contact Assistant Principal Sarmīte Dāvidsone, +1 (206) 232-6813, or Administrator Jogita Jurevska, +1 (650) 359-4025.

Sveika, Latvija!

For the fourth year in a row, the American Latvian Association is sponsoring the “Sveika, Latvija!” excursion for youth who have recently finished their local Latvian school. The program covers part of the cost of round-trip air travel and a two-week tour around Latvia. This year’s program is scheduled Aug. 16-30 and includes a route that expects to take the youths through all four Latvian provinces and Riga, showcasing historical, natural and religious landmarks. If nothing else, the program has been successful in forming lasting friendships with Latvian youth in North America who keep in touch with each other by telephone and e-mail.

Further information, including photographs of previous trips, is available from the ALA’s “Sveika, Latvija!” Web site.

Sveiks, Dzimtene and Baltija

So why should children have all the fun? The American Latvian Association also now sponsors a program for adults called “Sveika, Dzimtene!,” with the premise that many participants could be long-time exiles who have never been back to their homeland. Three trips are planned this year: one already underway that is to conclude June 5, another running July 6-20, and a third set July 27-Aug. 13. The last trip expands the range of the excursion outside of Latvia and is known as “Sveika, Baltija!”

The registration deadline for all three trips has passed, but further information about the program is available from Anita Juberte in the ALA office in Rockville, Md., telephone +1 (301) 340-1914, as well as from the “Sveika, Dzimtene!” Web page.

3X3 culture camps

Adults and families have found the 3X3 culture camps a welcome way to spend a week immersed in study, craftwork, singing and other activities. Camps this year are planned in the United States, England and Latvia.

In the Latvian church camp in the Catskill Mountains near Tannersville, N.Y., the 3X3 camp this year runs Aug. 13-20. Among some of the featured instructors and guest lecturers scheduled to appear are former Latvian President Guntis Ulmanis, Latvian-American composer Dace Aperāne, silversmith Juris Kļaviņš and folklorist Austris Grasis. The camp includes two programs for children. Further information about 3X3 in the Catskills is available from Ingrīda Jansone.

The 3X3 camp at the Gaŗezers Latvian camp near Three Rivers, Mich., also runs Aug. 13-20. Among the featured instructors and speakers expected are journalist Frank Gordon and professor Paulis Lazda in politics, potter Gundega Peniķe and silversmith Lilita Spure. The camp also plans three programs for children from toddlers to 12-year-olds. Further information about the Gaŗezers 3X3 camp is available from Amanda Jātniece, telephone +1 (715) 258-6107.

Further information on the 3X3 culture camp movement, as well as on all the specific camps scheduled this year, is available from the 3X3 Web site.

(Editor’s note: This article orginally appeared on SVEIKS.com.)

Andris Straumanis is a special correspondent for and a co-founder of Latvians Online. From 2000–2012 he was editor of the website.