At a stroke, Finland got three good neighbours 10 years ago. For the second time in the 20th century, Russia was so weak that Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania were able to break free. The first occasion was in 1918.

Good, harmless neighbours all three—even if they do give us a bit of a headache with their calls for NATO membership.

The mantra in the Baltic Rim is simple: "Get us all into NATO this minute."

During the Soviet era people got used to repeating different kinds of slogans and hoped that things would all work out for the best. Now it is the turn of others.

The European Union does not enjoy such unreserved support. Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania are all among the most EU-critical of the current crop of applicants. Populaces disgruntled with their governments like to tease their elected leaders by saying "no" to Brussels in opinion polls.

The Latvian nightmare is that Estonia will get into the EU in the first round and that Lithuania will join NATO. Would that leave the Latvians in a grey no-man’s land?

It is hardly likely that the West will abandon any one of these three.

The protective arm of Uncle Sam has come down over the Baltics; the region already seems to belong to the United States’ sphere of influence. One also gets this impression from the pressure that Washington exerted to get Estonia to privatise its power stations and Lithuania to open up its oil sector to American companies.

The paw of the Russian bear has not shifted an inch, either. In the view of many Russians, the Baltic Rim is still their backyard. If Russia closes the oil valves, the region’s economy will take a big hit.

We live in interesting times.

You have to admire the road the Baltic republics have taken. Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania carried through a unique revolution that was characterised by songs and by hands held together in a human chain rather than by automatic weapons and clenched fists.

The break-up of the Soviet Union began with the Baltics.

Finns find it pretty hard to step up and advise or criticise the Baltic trio. After all is said and done, these peoples managed to come through three successive occupations that would sap anyone’s strength and resolve—the Soviets, the Nazis, and then once again the Soviets in the post-war period.

They kept their cool and they liberated themselves peacefully. They are stable and progressive countries.

And another thing is worth remembering—if Finland had relatively as many Russians in its population as Latvia has, then there would be 2.2 million of them living here.

The three countries have earned and enjoyed one hell of a celebration in becoming independent once more. But now the hangover has come along.

According to one survey, only 33 percent of Latvians believe that their country has developed along the right lines since 1991.

The Balts have had to face numerous disappointments. The standard of living did not automatically bob upwards like a fishing float—in fact it went down; the West did not ride in and sweep the countries into its open arms; the Russian minorities didn’t move out en masse…

The researchers have come up with some alarming figures. In all three countries, the public’s approval ratings for political parties, parliament, the government, the judicial system, the police, the army, the customs authorities and the inland revenue services are perilously low.

And no wonder: many "humble servants of the people" get drunk with power and treat a career in politics or public service as a ticket to personal enhancement and wealth.

Increasingly the press is coming under the public hammer, too. Again it is hardly any surprise, considering that many journalists are prepared to sell themselves and their morals to the highest bidder.

An outsider looking in is forced to question how a democratic society can function where the lack of faith in state institutions is so deeply rooted.

If one goes back to Finland in 1927, a decade on from Independence and the Civil War, the disappointment and the crisis of confidence was still not as deep as this, in spite of all the traumas of those early years.

The Lithuanian President Valdas Adamkus declared not long ago that enterprises spent an excessive amount of their time wrestling with government bureaucrats and that they used one-third of their profits on bribes and backhanders.

The recently dismissed prime minister said that the Lithuanian economy had been brought to its knees in a decade: there will be more bankruptcies to come, the pile of unpaid wages will grow, unemployment is on the increase, and state support grants have been tossed into a bottomless well.

And yet even against this background it is easy to believe in a positive development in the Baltic countries. Independence has meant an intellectual liberation, freeing energy and creativity. These countries have a cultural kick, they have potential and they have a creditable level of civilisation, for all that many of the nouveau riche are boorish and brash.

The Baltic Rim countries enjoy access to an educated and hard-working labour force. They have an optimism, a belief in the future and a healthy patriotism. Traditions are held in high esteem, the family (nuclear and extended) is a tight unit, and human relations are regarded as important.

It may be of course that I move in the wrong circles, but I do not know of any citizens who are hankering to up anchor and move abroad as emigrants. One might naturally ask whether that is patriotism in action or merely a shortage of daring and initiative.

One cannot overstate the differences between the three peoples whom we tend to lump under the one Balt heading. They actually know relatively little about one another, and they are rivals rather than regional partners.

Governments in Latvia and Lithuania are fleeting affairs, and in both these countries it looks at present as if the people are prepared to experiment with a cautious leftist alternative.

Estonia’s politics are equally factious, but the governments are built to last rather better. It is hard to imagine that any groundswell of left-wing politics could take hold for at least a generation to come.

In all three countries the population is dwindling, particularly in Estonia and Latvia. It will probably be necessary in the not-too-distant future for them to take in immigrants, however impossible or repugnant the idea might seem right now.

In the final analysis, these are also poor countries when compared with the fifteen members of the EU.

A little bit of history: in the mid-17th century the rich and proud Kurland (Kurzeme in Latvian) occupied around 26,000 square kilometres of what is now western Latvia, on the Gulf of Rīga.

Not content with this, the duke who governed the place acquired a couple of colonies—Gambia in West Africa and Tobago in the West Indies. Now Latvia finds itself one place below Trinidad and Tobago in the latest United Nations Human Development Index.

I attended a funeral this summer in a small, idyllic Latvian town. During the ceremony, two guests who had been careless were embarrassed by their mobile phones ringing.

In some sense, then, I suppose the Baltic countries are catching up with the Finns, even though economists have estimated that it will be fully 30 years before they reach Finland’s present level of development.

(Editor’s note: This article originally appeared in Helsingin Sanomat and is republished here with the permission of the newspaper and the author.)

Ekselences! Cienījamās dāmas un godātie kungi! Man ir liels gods sveikt Jūs šodien Rīgā. Sirsnīgi sveicu Igaunijas Valsts prezidentu un kundzi. Sirsnīgi sveicu Lietuvas Valsts prezidentu un kundzi. Sirsnīgi sveicu Vācijas Federālo prezidentu un kundzi, kā arī delegāciju. Man ir patiess prieks, ka uz Rīgas 800. gadadienas svinībām ir atbraukuši Latvijas kaimiņi, draugi un partneri.

Brīvās un neatkarīgās Latvijas Republikas galvaspilsēta svin 800 gadu jubileju. Kopš 12. gadsimta beigām, kad pie Rīdziņas ietekas Daugavā uz dzīvi apmetās lībieši, zemgaļi, ieceļotāji no Kursas un kopš 1201. gada, kad savu rezidenci uz Rīgu pārcēla Brēmenes bīskaps Alberts, mēs esam kopā nogājuši garu ceļu astoņsimt gadu ilgajā un mainīgajā vēsturē. 13. gadsimtā Rīga kļūst par Hanzas savienības locekli. Kā hronikās rakstīts, Rīga, Livonijas metropole, izveidojās par vienu no ietekmīgākajām Hanzas pilsētām, kļūstot par Ziemeļeiropas tirdzniecības un sabiedriskās dzīves centru.

Cauri gadu simtiem Rīga izstarojusi lielu pievilkšanas spēku, kas piesaistījis gan tās iedzīvotājus, gan Rīgā nonākušos. Vācu zinātnieki, mākslinieki un sabiedriskie darbinieki ir atstājuši savus vārdus un darbus Rīgas vēsturē. Kā pilsētas teātra direktors vairākus gadus Rīgā darbojās Rihards Vāgners, Rīga ir bijusi šūpulis rakstniekam Verneram Bergengrīnam, zinātnisko darbību Rīgā ir sācis pazīstamais ķīmiķis, Nobela prēmijas laureāts Vilhelms Ostvalds. Rīga slavina arī Johanu Gotfrīdu Herderu, kurš šeit strādādams, smēlies ierosmi vairākiem saviem darbiem. Saskarsme, kas tuvina mūsu zemes un tautas vairāku gadsimteņu garumā, arī šodien ļauj dziļi izkopt kultūras tradīcijas un padziļināt mūsu garīgo dialogu. Vēlos atzīmēt paaudžu paaudzēs sniegto vācbaltiešu ieguldījumu Rīgas un visas Latvijas kultūras un saimnieciskajā dzīvē. Vācbaltieši arī šodien kā tilta cēlēji uztur saikni ar bijušo dzimteni.

Mēs lepojamies, ka Rīgas dēls ir igauņu mūsdienīgās dzejas aizsācējs Kristjans Jāks Petersons (Kristjan Jaak Petersen). 19. gadsimta beigās Rīga kļuva par nozīmīgu izglītības un zinātnes centru. Mēs esam priecīgi, ka daudzus Lietuvas valsts un kultūras darbiniekus kā savus skolniekus iepazina Rīgas mācību iestādēs – Rīgas ģimnāzijās un Rīgas politehnikumā. Atļaujiet nosaukt vien dažus to dienu skolniekus, kuru vārdi Lietuvai vēlāk kļuva tik nozīmīgi—armijas izveidotājs Antanas Juozapavičius, mākslinieks Petras Kalpokas, arhibīskaps Mečislovas Reinys.

Pirmo reizi savas pastāvēšanas vēsturē Rīga svin savu simtgadi kā Latvijas Republikas galvaspilsēta, turklāt šogad augustā tā atzīmē pirmo desmitgadi kā atjaunotas valsts galvaspilsēta. Priecājos, ka Vācijas Federatīvā Republika bija starp pirmajām valstīm, kas 1991. gada 28. augustā atkal atjaunoja diplomātiskās attiecības ar trim Baltijas valstīm—Latviju, Lietuvu un Igauniju. Aizvadītajā gadu desmitā starp mūsu valstīm atkal sazarojuši patiesi labi un uzticības pilni kontakti. Latvijas un Vācijas sadarbībai ir ielikti stipri pamati. Plaša un auglīga sadarbība saista visas trīs Baltijas valstis.

Latvija, Igaunija, Lietuva un Vācija kā Baltijas jūras reģiona valstis saista ne tikai Mare Balticum, tās tuvas kopīgās vērtībās, tās vienotas kopīgos nākotnes mērķos. Baltijas jūras telpā atkal kūsā dzīvība, kas šim reģionam Eiropā paredz visstraujākās attīstības garu. Tam ir liels politiskās, ekonomiskās, zinātnes un kultūras attīstības spēks. Latvija ir aktīva reģionālās un pārrobežu sadarbības dalībniece, lai minam kaut vai šī gada septembra nogalē Rīgā plānoto e-biznesa forumu. Ar gandarījumu varam atzīmēt, ka Vācijas Federatīvā Republika ir veiksmīgi aizvadījusi savu prezidentūru Baltijas jūras valstu padomē. Esmu pārliecināta, ka arī turpmāk mūsu valstis nežēlos pūliņus, lai īstenotu visam reģionam svarīgus projektus.

Baltijas valstis ir gatavas rūpēties par mūsu kontinenta drošību un stabilitāti. Mēs gribam pievienoties to valstu saimei, ar kurām mūs vieno un saista kopīgās vērtības. Konsekventa integrācija ES un NATO ir ne tikai Latvijas, Lietuvas un Igaunijas stratēģiskie mērķi. Šie jautājumi kļuvuši par visas valsts un sabiedrības dzīves sastāvdaļu. Vienīgi kļūstot par ES un NATO dalībvalstīm, Latvija, Lietuva un Igaunija pilnīgi iekļausies drošības un stabilitātes telpā. Mēs augstu vērtējam draugu un sabiedroto atbalstu ceļā uz ES un NATO. Mēs paļaujamies, ka Vācija kā ES dibinātājvalsts un NATO dalībvalsts konsekventi un mērķtiecīgi iestāsies par Baltijas valstu iestāšanos Eiropas Savienība un Ziemeļatlantijas Aliansē.

Baltijas valstīm un Vācijai ir vislabākie priekšnoteikumi, lai veicinātu vienotas Eiropas tapšanu mūsu valstu labklājībai, mūsu kaimiņu labklājībai, Eiropas labklājībai.

Ekselences, es vēlētos uzsaukt tostu… par Rīgu un tās iedzīvotājiem!… par mūsu valstu un tautu auglīgu sadarbību!… par vienotas Eiropas nākotni!

Our family just attended our first 3×3 camp in Latvia. We had already had a great introduction to the way 3×3 works back in January 2000 when we braved the Australian summer heat and headed off to the camp in Falls Creek, Victoria, for what proved to be an exhilarating experience that we wanted to repeat in the near future.

At the time we were rather exhausted as we had ventured to the camp with an active four-year-old and a (barely) one-year-old toddler. Our children are now slightly older and as we have already started to forget our “trials” in 2000, we felt ready for something on a grander scale.

The 3×3 camp in Rucava was to take place July 15-22 in the southwestern Latvian town close to the Lithuanian border. We had been informed that we would be transported to the camp from Rīga by bus on the morning of the 15th. So we headed off to Dailes teātris at 10 a.m. The first bus drove off without a hitch. But tragedy had struck the second bus—the one we were waiting for—on its way from Rucava to Rīga. We were deeply shocked to learn the driver and his young son died when the bus collided with a train at the Kalvene railway crossing and rolled over. Even more astounding was the news that the Rucava 3×3 camp leader, Dace Jurka, had originally planned to be on the bus but had changed her mind at the last minute.

Such an eerie introduction to the camp left many wondering about fate, God and the powers that be.

This was the 22nd Latvian 3×3 camp held in Latvia. Many of the people in charge looked like they already knew each other well and greeted each other with warm hugs and smiling faces. Seeing as we were true newcomers (as were most of the other camp participants), we entered the Rucava school grounds with a touch of apprehension but a strong feeling that we would very soon feel at home here.

We had chosen to board with one of the locals. We were immediately whisked away to the other side of Rucava (a two-minute drive away!) and introduced to our “landlady” for the week: a homely, smiling rucavniece who showed us to our quarters. We had stayed with friends and relatives in the countryside before so we were not surprised at all by our accommodations. Our main criteria for a pleasant stay is hospitality and a smiling face from the host. We immediately felt this warmth from our host, so we were certain we had been put together with the right person.

The walk back to the camp at a brisk pace would take 20 minutes. But with our two dawdlers in tow—who had to inspect every cow, dog, chicken and cat on the way—the walk took a bit longer. Our motto: the more fresh country air we breathe, the better!

We knew a few people—all “Westerners”—but in no time at all we had chatted to strangers with smiling faces and warm hearts, keen to meet this Latvian family from “down under.” It did not take too long to feel like part of a big family. A great way to meet people was at mealtimes. I don’t think we ever ended up sitting next to the same camp participant twice. I hope the reason for this was not our active children who scared mealtime “neighbors” away! Every mealtime proved to be an introduction to another soul, some keen to chat, others more reserved. The 3×3 organizers actively promoted this by encouraging everyone to greet each other using the personal pronoun “tu” instead of “Jus” in conversation, to wear our name tags at all times and to deliberately find a new person to sit next to each mealtime.

Some statistics may be worth mentioning at this point. There were 426 people in the Rucava 3×3 camp, including all the participants, organizers, cooks, cleaners and local rucavnieki who attended. Of these, 102 participants were locals while the remainder came from all four corners of the earth, some from the United States, Canada, Magadan (in far eastern Russia) and Australia, but most from within Latvian borders.

The first evening was spent in the Rucava open-air amphitheater, enjoying the talents of the locals, both young and old. Particularly impressive were the elderly Rucava ladies (our host was among them) singing ancient local songs in their national costumes. The festivities came to a premature halt when nature took over. A freak storm—a sudden wind followed by a full thunder and lightning extravaganza—put on a grand show that was later described by camp organizers as consistent with the theme of the camp, which was “fire.” We all later marvelled at the pine trees that had been struck by lightning only a couple of metres from the camp buildings.

The next six days of this camp raced by like a whirlwind. All I remember is that at a constantly hurried pace I was forever either handing my children over to the camp kindergarten (for three- to six-year-olds), racing to an ievirze (as the camp activities are called), being transported somewhere by one of the camp’s buses, eating yet another delicious meal or falling exhausted into bed after a full day’s activities (after killing an army of vicious mosquitoes that had taken us hostage in our bedroom).

The ievirzes at this 3×3 camp, about 30 in all, were many and varied: floristry, jewelry making, felt toy making, the art of ancient Latvian weaponmaking, theatre, discussions about Latvian politics, the Latvian oral history project (mutvārdu vēsture), a seminar focusing on family issues led by Māra Tupese and Līga Ruperte, Latvian cooking, literature, various folklore topics and many, many more activities. It would have been a hard task not to find at least one activity that sounded interesting!

In addition to all these ievirzes, on offer were excursions to a list of interesting sights in the Rucava region: the Latvian brumbies (savvaļas zirgi), the local “holy spring” (svētavots), Pape beach for regular swims, and a half-day excursion to Lithuania, including the dolphin show near Klaipeda and the amber museum in Palanga. However, the most interesting of these excursions was the trip to Nida beach where the organizers had planned such a varied program that it was impossible for anyone to complain about boredom: a sports carnival, a folkloric performance by Liepaja theatre actors, the opportunity to join local fishermen when they hauled in their day’s catch, and a feast of fish soup and rye bread. The most moving of this afternoon’s activities was a theatrical yet deeply symbolic “uguns daudzinājums”—fire worship—as a climax to the theme of this year’s 3×3 camp.

Most of all I enjoyed the chance to exchange ideas about any topic under the sun with other participants young and old. Our children had a great time as well, playing with Latvian kids in Latvian, not English, as they are used to doing in their home country of Australia. It was also interesting to chat to Latvian teenagers (there were about 50 of them at the camp) and catch a glimpse of their world view.

Overall the whole family found this week to be a hectic yet extremely positive experience, one we would certainly want to repeat sometime in the near future!