Nama Volejs: The World of DC Latvian Volleyball

“I was born right here, in the middle of this volleyball court, on a Thursday night back in ’85,” says my brother Alberts with a wink, pointing towards a church banquet hall bisected by a volleyball net hung between two hooks in the walls. His joke isn’t too far from the truth. Many of the players who have gathered this evening at the Latvian Lutheran Church of Washington D.C.’s community center in Rockville, Maryland, have been coming here to play volleyball every Thursday for the past ten to twenty years. A few can even trace their time back to the mid-’80s and beyond.

The group’s longevity and vibrancy are rare, especially at a time when many Latvian-American organizations are struggling to maintain numbers and bring in younger members. A typical Thursday night brings in anywhere from 6 to 18 players, and a key to its success is the group’s inclusive nature. Anyone can participate, regardless of age, ethnicity, gender or skill level. “It’s a community spirit,” explains Ēriks Brolis, who has been involved since roughly 1992, when, as a 12-year-old kid, he came along to play with his father. “It’s super unique; everyone is supporting everyone else to play at the top of their game, and so many levels can play together.”

He’s not exaggerating about the many levels. The group contains novices, experts, rec-league players, children, pensioners (the group once surprised one of these members with a 70th-birthday party between sets), and even an Olympian (1984 Olympic gold medalist and volleyball legend Aldis Bērziņš, who has been a Thursday-night regular for 15 years). Of the participants this particular evening, six played for their college varsity or club teams. Playing right alongside these experienced competitors is Māra Anderson, playing for the first time in her life. “I suck,” she says, “but it’s fun, and I’m learning a lot.” Initially apprehensive about joining, she now jokes that it’s been “better than expected, because people aren’t hitting me.”

Standing next to her, Robs Šverns, an eleven-year veteran of the group, is encouraging of her efforts: “If you haven’t played and are curious, you should try it.” Šverns himself hadn’t played before joining the group a decade earlier, and emphasizes that it is a great environment in which to learn.   He explains that it is one of the few places where everyone can play at the top of their game (whatever that may be), free of judgment.

Bērziņš—the Olympic gold medalist—agrees. “With a lot of volleyball you find cliques, and it is hard to get on the court. You have to play at a certain level,” he says. But here, that’s not the point. “Pašam patīk ka ir omulīgi. Nav svarīgi uzvarēt, bet [ir svarīgi] saspēle un draudzība.” (“I like that it’s friendly. It’s not important to win, but [what is important is] teamwork and friendship.”) His favorite aspect of the Thursday-night games is that all age groups play together. He started coming in the first place because he wanted to play with his sons, who started as young children cheering on their dad from the sidelines, but have since all grown up and won a slathering of NCAA championships and spots on professional teams.

The game played on Thursdays is unlike the game played anywhere else not just because of the eclectic mix of players, but also due to the strange set of rules. The players laugh that this may be the only place left in the world where side-out scoring is still in use (which means that only the serving team can earn a point; in more common “rally” scoring, whoever wins the play wins the point, no matter who served).  But the players enjoy the game being a little strange, as it provides a special character missing from other volleyball venues. “I like old-school rules more,” says Vik Bebris. “With rally, it’s one mistake, and you’re down. But the old rules feel more real.”

Stranger than the scoring system is the court itself. The room, used primarily for local Latvian community events such as stage plays, holiday ceremonies, and school graduations, is not quite the size of a standard volleyball court. The lip of a stage juts into the back line at one end; at the other, two air-conditioning vents protrude into the corners. In earlier years walls served as the side boundaries, though they added an extra two feet to either side of what would be an official court. This oddity grew stranger once antennas were introduced at the correct width.  Eventually frustrated players brought in painter’s tape to put down lines and solve some of these issues. But under current conditions, the most recent painter’s-tape lines have been pulled up. The resulting faint residue line is only visible in some areas, but still serves as the court boundary, leaving players to guess and debate whether certain hits are in or out. When a hit is in dispute, the refrain “Mineapolē tas būtu ārā!” (“In Minneapolis that would be out!”) can often be heard; it’s a decade-old throwback joke from when the group was preparing for an ALA Meistarsacīkstes (American Latvian Association Master Games) tournament in Minneapolis, where presumably the courts would be actual regulation size and shape.

A typical evening is flush with this sort of lighthearted joking mixed in amongst play.  Another favorite inside joke amongst players is the “Over 50” rule, which states that only players over the age of 50 are allowed to make certain questionable junk plays, such as windmill attacks. The “Friend Zone” is a three-inch wide strip of ground between the endline and the wall that frustrates attackers (so close, can’t score).  Classic rock plays over the loudspeakers during the games, which is then occasionally danced to by players in an attempt to distract their opponents.  And roughly once a year the group’s leader, Viesturs Timrots, brings in an assortment of delicious sausages, wings, and other snacks for a post-play party suggestively titled “Kas Par Desām” (literally translated to “Oh, What Sausages,” but actually a play on words that means “What a Mess.”)

The players fit so perfectly into this unique playing space that one might think it was built for them. And that is partially true. The roots of the Thursday-night game reach back to at least the 1960s, when the Washington, D.C. sports club “Sigulda,” sponsored by veterans-welfare organization Daugavas Vanagi, had a powerful women’s volleyball team consisting of impressive players like Ilze Pāža, Edīte Tālmane, Ausma Karlsona, and Edīte Āboliņa. At the time, the Latvian-American sports circuit was more developed and better populated, and the women held regular training sessions in local schools under the guidance of coaches Andris Karlsons, Jānis Tērauds, and Juris Ekšteins. The women went on many road trips, competing against Latvian-American teams across the East Coast and the Midwest, including powerhouse rivals New York and Minneapolis. According to Māra Bērziņš, who started playing on the team with her mother and sister Silvija in 1971, the weekly practices were no joke. So when the D.C. Latvian Lutheran congregation began formulating plans to build its own church and community center, it made sense to include the active Latvian volleyball community. Legend has it that the original plan for the banquet hall had a moderately high ceiling, but at Jānis Pāža’s urging, it was moved up by four feet to reach the minimum regulation height for volleyball. The room was subtly rigged to allow for a wall-to-wall net, and upon completion in the mid-1970s, the ladies moved in.

Around the same time, a coterie of male players under the leadership of Jānis Tērauds was playing weekly pick-up games at Langley High School in Virginia. My father (and current Thursday-night regular Knuts Ozols), played with them in the late 1970s. He describes these “Vecie Siguldieši” (“Sigulda Old-Timers”) as a friendly group that enjoyed going out afterwards to local pizza joint Rocco’s. Eventually, the school chose to shut down the games, and rec centers never quite panned out as an alternative. Over time the women’s team also dissipated, as players got older or moved away and no new women joined. (The lack of female players would last from the mid-1980s until only very recently. This year, for the first time in almost 30 years, Sigulda was able to contribute a partial female team to the annual ALA Meistarsacīkstes—and that was only possible by combining forces with another partial team from Canada.)

But the gap in Latvian D.C. volleyball did not last long. In the mid-to-late 1980s, Harijs Plūcis recruited other Latvian volleyball enthusiasts such as Jānis Bebris, Jānis Mūrnieks, Raimonds Pavlovskis, and current group leader Viesturs Timrots to join his local team, which played in a Montgomery County (Maryland) adult recreational league. The squad, named the Weekend Warriors, began using the banquet hall at the Latvian church for extra practice. In the early 1990s, the Latvian ambassador to the United States, Ojārs Kalniņš, in attempt to integrate arriving diplomats from the newly-freed Latvian Republic with the established Latvian-American community, invited his staff to join in, eventually forming their own embassy team that played in the same county league as the Weekend Warriors.  Soon the Thursday-night practices were flooded with both local players and diplomats. Though it forwent drills for pick-up games, the group continued to call the sessions treniņi (“training”).

Their format and nature have remained virtually unchanged ever since. The group still operates as part of D.C.’s Daugavas Vanagi and calls itself Sigulda, and officially Thursday nights are still called treniņi. Though the number of players fluctuates over time, with the slowest nights bringing in four players, and the busiest nights bringing in four teams worth of players, the game is always there for anyone who wants to play. “Zinu, ka te vienmēr ir spēle (‘I know there is always a game available here’),” says Ivars Ārums. Nicknamed “Key Component” on the court, Ārums is also a key component to the group’s off-court success. When he comes to play, he brings along his kids and even grandkids, reinforcing the group’s inclusive multi-generational vibe.

In fact most of the current active players got involved as children, tagging along to treniņi with their parents. Ēriks Brolis became the first of this new generation, joined soon thereafter by his brother Andrejs, and describes being the only child on the court: “Būtu trīs spēles, tad divas stundas sēž [runājoties ar draugiem], un es biju skolā nākamā dienā (‘We would have three games, then two hours of sitting [talking with friends], and I would be in school the next day’).” Around this time in the early 1990’s, a short-lived fathers-and-daughters game ran on Wednesday nights, which I attended with my father. Though it quickly ended due to lack of interest, my father and I moved over to Thursday nights. Eventually we “dragged along” my brother, as he remembers it. It was “towards the end of the fathers-and-daughters days and I kinda liked it,” he says. “And since then I’ve been here for the last two thousand straight Thursdays.” He pauses, then adds: “That number is approximate.”

Soon the Thursday-night court was flooded with teenagers who had come to play with their friends and parents. Affectionately nicknamed “Geezers and Teens Volleyball,” this late-1990s era saw the court frequently divided into games of old guys versus kids, with a small handful of age outliers in the middle. When it came time for D.C. to host the ALA Meistarsacīkstes in 2002, there were enough players to fill a competitive “A” team, a young-blood team of kids still learning the game, and a team of older players from the good old Weekend Warrior days.

Many of these players are still playing today. They are joined by people of all ages and skills levels as more Latvians migrate to the D.C. area and/or to the sport of volleyball. The newest crop of players also shows promise for the return of an active female volleyball presence in the region, with several female players coming by to either pick up the game or polish their existing skills. They cite the balance between competitiveness and lightheartedness, along with the presence of good teachers, as to why they enjoy the experience. “You get to work out kinks, there’s great company, and you get touches on the ball. [In other places] it is tough to pick up this game,” says Katie O’Rourke, now in her third year on the Latvian volleyball scene.

Over the past decade, Sigulda has sent players to almost every single Latvian-American volleyball tournament in North America, from East Coast competitions Kursas Kauss, Austruma Piekrasta Spēles, and Zelta Bumba to the West Coast’s Kostīmu Kauss, the Midwest’s 4-2, and the ever-migrating ALA Meistarsacīkstes (the one known exception was Meistarsacīkstes in Toronto, when the team had to drop out due to a late player injury). The team has even befriended the Estonian-American volleyball community, sending players to the Sportipaav and Baltic Bash tournaments and welcoming local Estonians who come to play on Thursdays.

Earlier this year, Sigulda hosted the 2015 ALA Meistarsacīkstes. Reflecting the Thursday-night games’ spirit of inclusion, the planning committee included members of different generations, ranging in age from early 20s to late 70s.  After the tournament, the players went back to their regular Thursday-night games, playing volleyball, eating home-cooked wings, teaching the basics to newcomers, and enjoying each other’s company. As this year’s ALA Meistersacīkstes MVP (and 15-year Thursday-nighter) Grants Osvalds puts it, “Vienmēr ir vietas—nāciet spēlēt! (‘There is always room—come play!’)”

Easy Judgments and Hard Documentation – 1949 American Film Documents Latvian DP Camps

Anne, a blonde teenager played by the actress Lenka Peterson (who bears a remarkable resemblance to modern-day movie star Natalie Portman), takes her homework seriously. Assigned an essay for civics class, she is determined to do a good job. Her research takes her to countless interviews all over town, and even earns her a walk-in meeting with the mayor. These seem like odd lengths to go for a mere 500-word essay, especially considering that she pads her final product with all 105 words of Emma Lazarus’ famous poem “The New Colossus.” But we can be thankful for Anne’s tenacity, for without it there would be no plot to the 40-minute movie Answer for Anne (1949). The film is particularly noteworthy for Latvian-Americans, because it features a scene where Anne sits down with her Lutheran pastor to watch actual footage of Latvians in DP (Displaced Persons) camps in Germany at the end of Word War II.

On September 21, 2014, members of the Latvian Evengelical Lutheran Church of Washington, DC, gathered for a viewing of the film in honor of the 75th anniversary of LIRS (Lutheran Immigration and Refugee Service), with all proceeds going to the organization. Theoretically the event should have been held on World Refugee Day (June 22), but since the Latvian calendar is crowded with Jāņi, Dziesmu Svētki, and the start of various summer camps and schools around that date, the church decided to push back the screening until a less busy time.

It’s no mystery why Latvians in America would want to pay tribute to LIRS. “How many of your families arrived with the help of a religious organization?” the event’s host, the Very Reverend Anita Vārsberga Pāža, asked the assembly. Almost all hands in the room flew up. As the pastor in the film explains to young Anne, taking in World War II refugees in the United States required two major commitments:  Congress passing the Displaced Persons Act in 1948, which opened the nation’s doors to Latvians and other DPs, and religious organizations and their members taking up the actual work of welcoming immigrants into their neighborhoods and homes. The Latvian-American community’s gratitude for the generous opportunities provided by organizations such as LIRS resulted, in 1982, in a partnership between LELBA (the Latvian Evengelical Lutheran Church of America) and LIRS; this partnership has given Latvian-American society the opportunity to pay it forward.

Answer for Anne was a fitting choice for the commemoration of LIRS’s formation. Created by LIRS’s predecessor, LRS (Lutheran Resettlement Service), the short film follows Anne as she gathers opinions on the essay’s topic: whether or not her town should accept DPs into its community. Unsurprisingly, she finds her answer by turning to her local Lutheran church, where she is reminded of Christ’s call to love thy neighbor. While at times a bit heavy-handed and oversimplistic in its depiction of the issue, the film does an effective job of urging Christians to open their hearts to refugees, and pulls no punches in stating that ignoring the plight of DPs is selfish.

With this year’s controversy over Central American refugee children showing up at the U.S. border, it’s hard not to notice how little has changed since Anne struggled with questions of immigration more than six decades ago. Anne spends the first half of the film approaching various members of the community and asking for their thoughts on DPs; any of their responses could just as well be heard in present day: “Sure, I feel sorry for all the trouble they got over there. But they’re their trouble[s]. We got enough [of our own].” The respondents worry that Americans will lose their jobs to the flood of new workers, that resources and housing are stretched thin, that the country should instead be focusing on its returning veterans. “Who comes first?” one man asks Anne. “GIs or DPs?”

This barrage of excuses is dismissed by Anne’s pastor, who comforts the distraught teen by saying there are plenty of jobs and space for everybody. Today’s economists and talking heads would no doubt be interested in seeing the pastor’s never-presented proof, but they would miss the greater point made by the film, which asks for common empathy. “When couldn’t this giant country bear a burden, when that burden is people?” the pastor implores. The Lutheran Church–produced film, created for viewing by churchgoers, even goes a step further, stating again and again that it is the duty of every Christian to care for those in need–in this case, DPs.

Though Answer for Anne bears the marks of its era and the approaching 1950s–obvious messages, clear moral guidelines, almost comical simplifications–it also employs subtle moments (perhaps intentional, perhaps not) to get its point across. Among Anne’s interviewees are an Italian shoemaker and an Irish police officer–both apparently recent enough immigrants that their non-American accents are still intact–who wish to turn away those who could benefit from the very opportunities that were at some point made available to them. Similarly, this weekend’s audience chuckled as a noticeably well-fed and well-dressed woman (filling her shopping cart to the brim with edible goodies) explained to Anne that there simply weren’t enough resources in America to clothe and feed all the potential new arrivals. Yet today, cannot most of us, DPs and their descendants, honestly say that we do not sometimes resemble this woman when we go up and down the aisles of our Costco or Whole Foods?

The film also starkly juxtaposes its happy, smiling, good Christian Americans with the desolation of those less fortunate on the other side of the Atlantic. In 1949, the film’s audiences were supposed to relate to Anne and her father, who, honest to God, lights a match on the bottom of his shoe, then merrily puffs on his pipe while talking to Anne about her school project and filling her bedroom with smoke. An American today might watch this film and think, “Wow, this is what we were really like back then!”

But those watching in the room at the Latvian church most likely related to another character: Frīdriks Freimanis. Freimanis and his two newly motherless children appear in the filmstrip shown to Anne by her pastor. The pair watches as the Latvian family wanders lost through a bombed-out Germany, are picked up by Lutheran aid workers, and are brought to DP Camp Valka. The filmstrip includes actual footage from the real-life DP camp and its inhabitants, a couple of whom were in attendance at the screening this weekend. It is not clear whether the Freimaņi were a real Latvian family or to what degree they were acting, but the shots of the camps are all authentic, complete with signposts for Brīvības Bulvāris (Liberty Boulevard). American viewers in 1949 saw the actual bombed-out, overcrowded barracks that DPs called home. They saw children playing games and going to school, families working hard to provide what little they could for one another, and parents scouring bulletin boards for emigration announcements, only to watch as their single young male friends leave for manual-labor jobs abroad. “The plain ordinary truth is, nobody wants them,” sobs Anne.

It’s anybody’s guess how effective this particular film and its Latvian stars were in convincing American Lutherans to sponsor DPs for immigration. But the fact that such a robust Latvian community exists in the U.S., and that most of the people at the screening could specifically thank LIRS and other religious organizations for their presence in America, is a testament to how effective these groups’ efforts were. LIRS in particular was instrumental enough in Latvian refugee resettlement that in 1998, Howard Hong, who became the director of LIRS’s refugee service in 1947, was awarded a Triju Zvaigžņu Ordenis, the highest civilian honor bestowed by the Latvian government.

The Latvian postwar emigration is long over, and many DPs and their family members are, thankfully, well-off in the U.S., light-years away from the hard conditions depicted in Answer for Anne. But the lessons from this simple film are still relevant today. LIRS continues its work with refugees from other countries, and we find ourselves on the other side of the table, just like the Italian shoemaker, the Irish police officer, and the thriving grocery shopper of Anne’s small town. It is in our nature, perhaps, to resist change or differences. “Mēs esam cilvēki kādi mēs esam,” (“We are people as we are,”) remarked Rev. Vārsberga Pāža at the screening, and we have been this way since Adam and Eve.

But before we judge or dismiss others who are new or struggling, let us remember the words of Anne’s pastor as he viewed us, Latvians, at a moment of great vulnerability: “DPs are everything that we are.”

For more information about Lutheran Immigration and Refugee Services and their history, visit the LIRS website.

“Answer for Anne” can be viewed for free on YouTube.

20 Things To Do at 4-2 Weekend

This past weekend (Aug. 1-3, 2014) I attended 4-2 Weekend at the Latvian center Gaŗezers in Three Rivers, Michigan. This volleyball-centered celebration is one of the largest and most popular annual Latvian events in North America. But explaining it to those who have not attended is often difficult. “It’s a volleyball tournament, but it’s, like, a really big-deal crazy tournament with a huge party and tons of spectators” just doesn’t seem to capture the weekend’s nuance and vibrancy. Below is a checklist of activities you are likely to experience if you make your way to Gaŗezers in early August:

1. Meet at least a dozen Latvians before even reaching Gaŗezers

With Latvians across the continent streaming to the same location at the same time using the same main routes, it’s only natural that you will spot several SVEIKS stickers along the Ohio Turnpike, or find yourself in line for the rest-area bathroom behind old camp friends. But if a chance meeting hasn’t yet happened by the time you roll into Three Rivers, don’t fret. When you make the mandatory stop at local superstore Meijer for supplies, half the people in the beer aisle or checkout line will be speaking Latvian.

2. Attend Strādnieku Balle

The employees of Gaŗezers usually get together every Thursday night to let off steam and wear hilarious costumes based on weekly themes. On 4-2 Weekend, the party is moved to Friday to accommodate the surge of early-arriving volleyball enthusiasts. This year’s theme, “Bringing it Back,” was vague enough to accommodate any absurd outfit, while allowing less adventurous attendees to make up a reason why their normal attire still followed the rules. Among the jeans and sundress-wearing normals were various Mario Kart characters, a suspiciously muscular Marilyn Monroe, and the Mad Hatter. Even the bare-bones, dome-shaped venue itself, Jautrais Ods (“The Merry Mosquito,” also affectionately nicknamed Club O.D.S.), had been transformed to resemble a giant TARDIS. The most exuberant of the weekend’s parties, Strādnieku Balle is an effective introduction to the strange world of 4-2.

3. Camp in a lakefront tent shantytown

While many Latvians are lucky enough to own lake houses, trailers, or other property in the area, many of us find ourselves slumming it in a tent. Dzintari, the recreational area of Gaŗezers, features a beautiful stretch of shady sand along Long Lake to accommodate every camping need. On 4-2 Weekend, the space is packed stake-to-stake with colorful domes; natural alleyways form between them and wind into an elaborate maze. One friend asked me, “How do any of you find your way back into your own tent late at night?” The answer is: I have no idea.

4. Hand your empties to a roaming band of children

Scurrying through these shantytown passageways and up the dusty lanes, moving from picnic table to picnic table, are small, elusive creatures carrying bulky objects twice their size. The creatures are children of families attending 4-2, and the bulky objects are trash bags filled with empty bottles and cans, which they return to recycling centers for serious cash. This sight can be a little jarring to the first-time visitor, but returnees don’t even blink an eye, knowing full well that these kids are having fun and just trying to earn some extra pocket money. After all, they’re doing their part to help the environment and to keep Gaŗezers clean, and the containers are empty.

5. Enjoy the luxuries of trailer life

Tent Shantytown is great and all, but lakefront life in Gaŗezers mainly revolves around the dozens of trailers, big and small, scattered throughout its hills and shorelines. One of the longest-running jokes about Dzintari is that it is literally a trailer park, but a “vacation” trailer park. Each trailer is owned by a Latvian family and has its own charms, from the two-story-high wood-paneled cabin on the edge of “town” to the simple one-bedroom, half-bath in the center of everything, to the posh, newly renovated condo on the hill.

6. Play golf

I admit I did not participate in this one, nor do I have any clue where people play, why, or who organizes it. But roughly a fifth of all 4-2 attendees disappear somewhere on Saturday morning, claiming that they are going golfing.

7. Wade out to Burka World

If there’s anything more relaxing than sitting by the lake with good friends, it’s sitting IN the lake with good friends. On a beach at the edge of Tent Shantytown stands an extra-long picnic table engraved with Latvian symbols and surrounded by various pool noodles and flotation devices. At the beginning of the day, the first visitors to Burka World (“burka” being the Latvian word for “jar” or “container” and referencing a shared cocktail, not to be confused with “burqa”) move the table about 20 feet into the lake, sit down, and stay there, sometimes for several hours at a time, while overflow visitors float around in pool toys. Merriment ensues.

8. Support youth volleyball

Up the hill and across the street from Dzintari is Gaŗezera Vasaras Vidusskola (GVV), a residential summer school for Latvian teenagers. In addition to its primary duty of passing on knowledge and culture to the next generation of Latvians, it is also the unofficial training ground of future volleyball superstars, with three different levels of instruction available in the afternoons. The culmination of this effort is the youth tournament held on the Saturday of 4-2 Weekend. While it doesn’t draw the crowds that Sunday’s adult tourney does, the youth tournament is no joke, and supporters sit all day cheering on their favorite players. Particularly impressive this year was the Sagskola boys’ team, a collection of younger teens who were half the height of their post-pubescent opponents but had better fundamentals and basic skills than most adult players. Someday, these kids will kick all our butts.

9. Attend a GVV class reunion

GVV classes reunite on 4-2 Weekend every five years after graduation. For people like me, who attended GVV but do not get to return often, meeting up with old classmates serves as a decent impetus to make the trip. This year the 5- and 10-year reunions (class of ’09 and ’04, respectively) were both well attended, with the younger class challenging the older to drinking games at a family’s lake house. It was by all accounts a vibrant and rowdy affair, with dozens of alumni having a grand old time catching up. Across the lake on the patio of another lake house, we old-timers of the 15-year reunion sat peacefully sipping cognac and discussing babies and real-estate investments, and the 20-year reunion folks enjoyed wine and memories at a trailer in Dzintari.

10. Eat at Applebee’s and/or Happy Landing. Twice.

Perhaps you need a meal that does not consist entirely of chips and beer. Or perhaps you need to carbo-load before your big game. A trip into town for Applebee’s is the answer. Your alternate meal destination is Happy Landing, a local establishment on the other side of the lake that serves breakfast and lunch and is accustomed to being overrun with bleary-eyed Latvians in need of stomach-coating.

11. Take a boat ride

Pontoon racing, kayaking, booze cruising, waterskiing–take your pick. But at some point, you are required to get out on the water.

12. Accumulate countless wristbands, stickers, and pins

Prepare to wear some flair. First, you need a green wristband to enter Gaŗezers territory during 4-2 Weekend. Your car needs a parking sticker. Your tent needs a tag. You need more wristbands if you want to attend any of the evening parties. And you need a pin to get food on the final night. You also need to pay an entrance fee to play in the tournament, though thankfully no additional accessories are (currently) needed for that one.

13. Attend Sirds Līksmo

Located in Dziesmu Leja, an outdoor amphitheater about five minutes’ walk from the rest of Gaŗezers, Sirds Līksmo is an annual concert put on by the American Latvian Youth Association (ALJA) on the Saturday night of every 4-2. This year’s show, featuring Toronto band Penzionāri and DJ Velkro, was a smash success, with a later-than-usual start time that allowed for a respectable crowd to gather before the opening song. Throw in a state-of-the-art sound system and light display and a sizable open-air dance floor, and you have a legit party. More serious volleyball players often take it easy on this evening, either leaving once the band stops playing at 1 am or not bothering to show up at all, but those more focused on dancing stick around for the DJ, who this year was scheduled to end at 3 am but continued playing for eager crowds until 5.

14. Stake out your space for volleyball spectating

As the last of the Sirds Līksmo night owls make their way back to Dzintari in the wee hours of the morning, they may encounter birds of a different feather: volleyball enthusiasts setting up their lawn chairs around the main court to claim a decent viewing spot. They get up extra early, set up their chairs, leave, and return several hours later once the action is under way. By 9 am, more than 100 empty chairs are lined up two-deep around the edge of the court, hinting toward the event to come.

15. Watch volejs

By the time Sunday rolls around, it’s time to get to the heart of the matter: volejs (the shortened/slang version of the Latvian word for “volleyball”). Though Saturday’s youth tournament draws its fair share of spectators, the real numbers turn out for Sunday’s adult co-ed tournament, named 4-2 because each team must consist of four men and two women. Spectators who have not put out their camping chairs early in the morning find spots wherever they can: on bleachers, logs, rocks, and trailer balconies. Past tournaments have featured unmissable heckling sections, but that negativity seemed to be absent this year. Instead, the most enthusiasm came from the bleachers, where GVV students cheered, “Kur ir Markus?” (“Where is Markus?”) whenever their classmate Markus Melbārdis sat on the bench for his top-level team; whenever he appeared on the court or touched the ball, they erupted into crazy applause.

16. Eat wings

A full day of spectating in the hot sun will leave one feeling peckish, and that’s where wings come in. For years the 4-2 concession stand was ruled by “Lielais Volejs” and “Mazais Volejs,” two delicious sausage dishes, but these have been joined in recent years by platters of yummy, addictive chicken wings. Volunteers work tirelessly all Saturday and Sunday, providing ravished customers with more meat than an Upton Sinclair novel.

17. Play volejs in Vecais Sporta Laukums

Oddly enough, the majority of the volleyball action on 4-2 Weekend doesn’t happen anywhere near the central party area in Dzintari. The twenty-three participating teams (consisting of somewhere between 150 and 200 total players) are divided into four brackets based on level, with each bracket playing on its own court, and only teams in the top level, or power bracket, play in Dzintari. The remaining three brackets trek up a dusty road to Vecais Sporta Laukums, a grassy field with no bleachers, stadium lights, or chicken wings. While plenty of people wander over to watch the games and support friends on various teams, the crowds still seem scarce compared to the big draw of the central Dzintari court. Play in Vecais Sporta Laukums varies greatly, with the C bracket (affectionately nicknamed the “beer bracket”) consisting of beginners and just-for-fun teams, the A bracket consisting largely of top GVV players and former power-bracket players, and the B bracket catching everyone in the middle. Yet every single one of these teams has the opportunity to win the entire tournament, since the top teams from each of these brackets advance to the quarterfinal to face off against the top four power-bracket teams.

18. Play volejs in Dzintari

This is where the people are. It’s where the food is. It’s where the bathrooms are. And, in recent years, it’s where the stadium lighting has been, which allows the finals to be played after nightfall. A sizable crowd watches this court all day Sunday, but the numbers grow even larger as the playoffs begin in the evening. At the end of pool play, the quarterfinals begin, giving two lucky lower-bracket teams the opportunity to play center stage. As the playoffs progress and more teams are eliminated, transforming their players into spectators, and as Burka World closes up shop and excitement builds, more and more attention is focused on this court, until it seems that every single person in Gaŗezers has squeezed in to watch the final match and marvel at the best that Latvian volleyball has to offer. To give an idea of the caliber of play on display at 4-2, this year’s first place team, Banķieri, consists of four players who have recently won NCAA championships (three as players and one as a coach). Eyeing a group of excited young children who had wormed their way into (potentially dangerous) front-row seats, a longtime power-bracket player awaiting his next game said to me, “How could any kid see all of this and NOT want to play volleyball?” I tend to agree with him.

19. Attend Cūku Bēres

Once the excitement of volleyball settles down and the players get cleaned up, yet another party begins. Cūku Bēres (which, like Sirds Līksmo, is organized by ALJA) is especially enticing because it features a large amount of food, and exhausted players need a lot of calories. Volunteers begin serving vittles during the tail end of the tournament, allowing the crowd to munch on delicious pig meat while watching the games. Once play is over and the food runs out, the party moves to Jautrais Ods to spark yet another evening of dancing and celebrating.

20. Reminisce with friends

In the end, 4-2 Weekend is really about meeting friends – new and old. Whether the highlight was the big game, eating an ungodly amount of Applebee’s mozzarella sticks, or staying up all night to greet the sunrise with a platter of Cūku Bēres leftovers, the memories formed this weekend will last a lifetime, or at least until next year’s 4-2.